Producer note: Laurent Ponsot told me that his yields in '00 were in the 37 to 38 hl/ha range versus 40 hl/ha in '99. Further, in contrast to what many vignerons reported, he said he had no rot and picked his 2000s very late; in fact, he waited until the 27th of September to begin, which is about one week later than most domaines (the ban de vendange was the 16th in the Cote de Nuits). The acidities were in his estimation perfect; he explains this by saying that potassium was never added to any of the Domaine's vineyards the way it was in much of Burgundy.
Ponsot was putting the finishing touches on a new cuverie at the time of my visit and has added a second basket press, both of which date from 1945. He believes this gives him excellent control over the press wine and it can be done in small batches; in fact, these presses are so small that this is necessarily the case. In other developments chez Ponsot, another 2 ha of vineyards were purchased from the Volpato family; the appellations involved include Chambolle-Musigny, Aligote, Bourgogne, and Passe-Tout-Grains - this raises the number of hectares to 11.
The Domaine has also adopted an interesting new technology. On the back label is a small temperature sensitive white dot about the circumference of a pencil eraser; this white dot will turn gray if the temperature of the bottle has exceeded 44 degrees Centigrade (82 degrees F) for a short length of time. In this way, Ponsot believes consumers will be able to tell if any of his wines have been subjected to heat abuse.
The Ponsot '00s are good wines in the context of the vintage but the '99s are in several cases superb. Whatever was plaguing the Domaine between 1993 and 1996 appears to have been corrected as the '97s, '98s and '99s are all very good to excellent. Both the '00s and the '99s will be bottled without fining or filtration. The '99s were bottled relatively late, with the villages wines being bottled in June of this year and the premiers and grands crus bottled in September; few domaines in Burgundy now do a full 24 month elevage.
Tasting note: This is finer still with black cherry fruit and medium weight flavors supported by dusty tannins, good length and solid persistence. However, this is much more reserved than the Grives and is borderline austere yet there is clearly more underlying material and power. I like the style.
Tasted: Jan 01, 2002
|Name||Morey St Denis Cuvee des Alouettes Ponsot|
|Region||France／Bourgogne／Cote de Nuits／Morey St Denis|